Moments from Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam

The Netherlands' museum of modern and contemporary art and design opened in 1895 in a red-brick Neo-Renaissance building on Museumplein, and picked up a nickname, "the bathtub," when Benthem Crouwel added a stark white, curved extension in 2012 that visitors thought looked like a giant enamel tub dropped next to the old facade. The permanent collection includes one of the largest Malevich holdings outside Russia, a strong run of De Stijl material connecting directly to Mondrian and van Doesburg, and the loose, childlike color of the CoBrA group, Karel Appel especially, who treated painting almost like a physical fight.

Because it sits on the same square as the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum, it's easy to treat as an afterthought squeezed into a single afternoon, but it deserves its own visit and its own energy: this is where you go to see what Dutch art did after the Golden Age stopped being the story. The building itself is worth reading as part of the experience, the contrast between the old brick museum and the new white volume is a fairly literal statement about the collection inside. Visitors under 18 get in free, which makes it an easy add-on if you're already at the Rijksmuseum next door.